Working in Your Florida Soil

Keeping your soil productive and healthy

A trench dug deep exposing differently colored soil layers in what appears to be a park. — Soil layers exposed at a research site on the University of Florida campus.

Good, healthy soil is the basis for any plant’s success. Monitoring your soil’s productivity — and adjusting your soil management along the way — can make a huge difference in the garden. This earthy substance is not just a mixture of particles; it is also teeming with life and functions as a medium for nutrient and water uptake, storage or exchange.

Right Plant, Right Place

“Soil health” encompasses the physical, chemical and biological aspects of soil. When each component is working in synchrony, the soil can become a habitable place for plant life. But these favorable conditions mean something different for every plant, as each species has varying requirements. You must understand what it needs and then place it where those needs can be met. The right plant in the right place will improve the plant’s health and require less maintenance.
Using the Florida-Friendly Landscaping Plant Guide app you can view the soil requirements for specific plants recommended for Florida. It will provide you with soil conditions like texture, drainage and pH needed for that species.

Soil Texture

Texture is an inherent property of soil that varies from place to place. It is the relative proportion of sand, silt and clay particles in any given area. Coarse‑textured or sandy soils have a lot of sand, while fine‑textured soils contain more clay. Soils that have more balanced amounts of sand, silt and clay fall into the category of loam. These soil textures can be visualized in a triangle-shaped diagram commonly used to compare soil types (Figure 1).

In Florida, most of the soil is on the sandy side, with slight differences depending on the region. Florida’s soil lies in the bottom left of the triangle diagram, with different combinations of clay and sand. Florida’s official state soil is called Myakka (pronounced My-yakah) and is the most predominant soil in the state.

A cross-section of Florida soil — A cross section of a typical Myakka soil sample outside of Labelle, Florida. UF/IFAS.

The soils of North and Central Florida are typically very sandy, while in the Panhandle, the soil can contain substantial amounts of clay. Clay soils compact more easily and drain slower than sandy soils. Meanwhile, down south in the Everglades, soils tend to be peat-based and extremely fertile. If you live in this area, you may not need to amend your soil. Finally, in extreme South Florida, soils are often shallow and have a high pH due to the influence of the limestone bedrock.

As a rule of thumb, you should always assess the texture, pH and nutrient content of soil before planting. Then, you can figure out what types of plants are suited for that location and soil type, and plant accordingly. If you are not sure of your land’s native soil texture, you can use the Web Soil Survey available through USDA. For information about testing your soil’s pH and nutrient content, see the next section.

Keep in mind that when building a new home, “fill material” is often brought in from elsewhere to increase the elevation of the land for drainage purposes. Ornamental plants that have been bred to be durable in most soils are likely to have success when planted in this fill material; however, native plants might struggle with this non-native material.

Soil pH and Nutrient Content

“Soil fertility” is the relative ability of a soil to supply the nutrients essential to plant growth. This is directly affected by pH, which influences nutrient availability and microbial processes in the soil. At extreme high or low levels, the pH can cause certain nutrients to be deficient and even lead to the presence of toxic elements. Generally, the maximum nutrient availability for plants is at a pH between 6 and 7. The median soil pH for Florida soils is 6.1, which is slightly acidic.

It’s possible to alter the pH of your soil by adding supplements like lime or sulfur. But the effects may be temporary, and applying too much lime or sulfur can damage your plants and may even reduce soil productivity. In some cases, over‑application can cause long‑term damage, making recovery slow and difficult. Your best bet is to choose plants suitable for your soil’s pH.

To determine your soil’s pH (and nutrient content), submit a soil sample to a reputable lab such as the UF/IFAS Extension Soil Testing Laboratory. (Keep in mind that they do not analyze the soil texture.)

Cross section of a home compost pile showing layers of brown and green scraps breaking down into dark nutritious soil. — Composting is a great way to turn kitchen scraps and yard waste into what gardeners call “black gold.”

Nutrients are an important aspect of soil, as they feed your plants and keep them strong and healthy. You can improve the soil with a host of Florida-Friendly organic amendments, such as compost or manure. By doing so, you’ll increase the nutrient content of the soil and help it retain moisture.

It’s best to only apply soil amendments when soil tests indicate a need, and to choose the type of amendment that best fits those needs. It should be noted that annual applications of manure-based composts can cause a buildup of phosphorus in the soil, which can negatively affect soil productivity over time. Learn more about the types of organic soil amendments and how to incorporate them into your landscape in our article, Organic Soil Amendments.

Soil Compaction

Healthy soil has space between the soil particles for water and air to move and roots to extend into the earth. Large construction machinery or heavy foot or vehicle traffic can cause the spaces between the soil particles to lessen, making the soil denser. This compaction makes it difficult for water to travel through the soil, thereby decreasing absorption of water by plants and increasing stormwater runoff. It also causes shallow root growth and decreases the amount of oxygen available in the soil. In some cases, it is nearly impossible to establish plants in compacted soil.

If you have widespread soil compaction, you may need to take action. Loosening the soil with a pitchfork or tiller, and adding compost if needed, will reduce the compaction in the shallow soil layers. Deeper tilling, while more effective, requires machinery and could interfere with buried utilities. You can learn more by reading the Ask IFAS publication, Soil Compaction in the Urban Landscape.

Microorganisms and Macrofauna

Earthworm wriggling around in dark healthy soil being unearth by a pair of hands. — Healthy, functioning soils are full of life.

Healthy soil should function as a complex ecosystem (biome), teeming with life. It can support many microorganisms and macrofauna such as fungi, bacteria, earthworms or insects. These organisms help create usable forms of nutrients and keep pathogenic microbes in check. They also improve soil structure and produce organic matter, as well as increase the ability of the soil to hold water.

A good practice for supporting a healthy biome in the soil is to cover the soil with mulch and grow a variety of different plants throughout the year. By using Integrated Pest Management, you can minimize how much chemical product you use in the landscape and keep those organisms working the soil.

Soil lays the groundwork for plants to flourish. With a little effort in the garden, you can ensure the soil is healthy and hospitable for your favorite plants. Using the right plant for your soil and maintaining the soil’s integrity can go a long way.